FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Find quick answers about appointments, repairs, pricing, diagnostics and more.
APPOINTMENTS
Do I need an appointment?
Yes. We highly recommend scheduling your visit in advance so we can plan enough time for your vehicle and minimize your wait.
What is the best way to schedule an appointment?
Can I schedule an appointment by phone?
Yes. If we’re unable to answer, please leave us a voicemail with your name, phone number, and the reason for your call. We return all calls and emails as quickly as possible, usually in less than an hour.
Do you accept walk-ins?
What information should I provide when scheduling?
Please provide the year, make, and model of your vehicle, as well as its VIN. Briefly describe the service you need or the symptoms you’re experiencing. The more information you provide, the better we can prepare for your visit.
What is your cancellation policy?
We do not charge a cancellation or no-show fee, but we ask that you let us know as soon as possible if you cannot make your appointment. Canceling ahead of time allows us to offer that time to another customer and helps us keep the schedule running smoothly.
Saturday appointments are especially limited and are available by appointment only. If a Saturday appointment is missed without prior notice, future Saturday bookings will no longer be available.
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PRICING & PAYMENT
What is your labor rate?
Our standard labor rate is $160 per hour. The total labor cost depends on the repair and the amount of time required to complete it.
How is labor time calculated?
We use Mitchell 1 ProDemand, a professional automotive repair information system, to determine the standard labor time for each repair. These published labor times, often called “book time”, are based on the vehicle, the specific repair, and established service procedures. We apply that standard time to our hourly labor rate to calculate the labor charge.
This means the labor charge is based on the established time for the repair, rather than simply how long the vehicle happens to be in the shop.
Why do some services say “starting at”?
Some services vary depending on the vehicle and the amount of testing or labor required, so the final price may be higher than the starting price shown. If additional work is needed, we’ll explain what is required and let you know the cost before moving forward, so there are no surprises.
Do you offer any free inspections or checks?
Do you charge for diagnostics?
Will I know the cost before repairs are performed?
Always. We do not perform any work without your approval. We provide a clear estimate that includes parts, labor, and taxes so you know what to expect before we begin.
Whenever possible, we also explain the different outcomes that may come up during the repair, including the worst-case scenario, so you can make an informed decision and avoid surprises.
If we discover an unexpected issue or additional repair after work has started, we will contact you and get your approval before proceeding.
What payment methods do you accept?
We accept cash, debit cards, credit cards (Visa, Mastercard, Discover, and American Express), and Zelle.
Do you accept Apple Pay or contactless payments?
Not at this time. Our card terminal does not support Apple Pay or tap-to-pay, so debit and credit cards must be inserted or swiped when applicable.
Do you offer financing?
Yes. We work with Snap Finance to offer financing options for eligible customers. Approval and terms are provided directly through Snap Finance.
Want to see more of our pricing?
View our most common service rates and get a better idea of what to expect before your visit.
SERVICES
What vehicles do you work on?
We work on most domestic, Asian, and European cars, SUVs, and light-duty trucks. It’s rare that we can’t service a vehicle, but some vehicles may be too heavy or sit too low for our equipment. If you’re unsure, send us the year, make, model, and VIN, and we’ll confirm before you come in.
What types of services and repairs do you offer?
What if I’m not sure what service my car needs?
That’s completely fine. Tell us what symptoms you’re experiencing, such as a warning light, unusual noise, vibration, leak, or change in how the vehicle drives. We can inspect the vehicle and advise you on what needs attention.
Can you diagnose a Check Engine Light?
Yes. A Check Engine Light can be caused by many different issues. With our advanced scanner, we can read the stored, pending and history codes and your car live data. When necessary, we can perform additional testing to determine the actual cause rather than replacing parts based on the code alone.
Do you perform scheduled maintenance?
Yes. We can perform the maintenance recommended for your vehicle, including services commonly scheduled around 15,000, 30,000, 60,000, 90,000, and 120,000 miles.
Do you offer pre-purchase inspections?
Can you check my car even if I only want to know whether something is wrong?
Yes. You do not need to already know what repair is required. We can inspect or test the vehicle, explain what we find, and advise you on any service or repair that may be needed.
Do you repair major mechanical problems?
Yes. In addition to routine maintenance, we perform more involved repairs such as engine repair or replacement, head gaskets, radiators, axles and CV joints, automatic and manual transmissions, clutches, four-wheel-drive systems, and A/C and heating repairs.
Do you service brakes and tires?
Yes. We inspect and service brakes, rotors, and related components. We also provide tire rotation, mounting and balancing, and can advise you when an alignment may be needed. We can order most tire brands and sizes, and in many cases they can be delivered by the next day. If you send us your tire size, we can check availability and pricing for you.
We do not sell or install used tires, but you’re welcome to bring your own tires as long as they are new.
Do you provide services such as towing, smog checks, body work, or windshield replacement?
We work with trusted local businesses for services we do not perform directly, including towing, smog checks, key and locksmith services, body work, wheel alignment and windshield replacement.
Can you fix a vehicle that failed a smog check?
We can help before a vehicle fails. We offer a free pre-check to help determine whether the vehicle appears ready for a smog inspection, and we can repair issues we identify beforehand.
However, once a vehicle has officially failed a smog check, we are not an accredited smog repair facility, so we cannot perform the certified repairs required for that failed test.
Want to learn more about our services?
Explore our full list of services and partners to help keep your car running at its best.
PARTS & WARRANTY
Do you use original or aftermarket parts?
We use both original equipment (OEM) and aftermarket parts, depending on availability, the repair, and your preference.
Some parts are only available through the dealership, while many can be sourced from other suppliers that offer both OEM and aftermarket options. We only supply brands we trust because we stand behind our work and want to avoid premature failures or short-lived repairs.
We also work with your preferences and budget. If you want only OEM parts, that is what we will quote and install. If you are looking for a more affordable option, we can recommend aftermarket parts that we trust.
If the only lower-cost parts available are brands we are not comfortable supplying, we will not provide them ourselves. You may still purchase those parts on your own, and we can install them when appropriate, but customer-supplied parts and the labor to install them are not covered by our warranty.
Do the parts you install come with a warranty?
Most parts supplied by us come with a warranty. Coverage can vary depending on the part and manufacturer, and we’ll let you know what warranty applies to your repair.
Can I bring my own parts?
Yes. You’re welcome to bring your own parts when appropriate. However, we do not provide a warranty on customer-supplied parts or on the labor required to install them.
What does your warranty cover?
When we supply the parts for a repair, we stand behind our work. If a covered part fails during the warranty period, our supplier generally replaces the defective part, and we cover the labor to replace it at no additional charge to you.
The warranty applies specifically to the parts we supplied and the work we performed. It does not mean that every component in the same system, or the vehicle as a whole, is covered.
How long is your warranty?
Warranty periods vary depending on the repair and the parts installed. Most repairs are covered for either 12 months or 12,000 miles or 24 months or 24,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Used engine and transmission replacements generally carry a 3-month warranty. Some rebuilt engines, transmissions, or other components may be available with longer warranty coverage for an additional cost. We’ll explain the applicable warranty before the repair is performed.
What is not covered by the warranty?
Customer-supplied parts and the labor to install them are not covered by our warranty.
A problem is also not automatically covered simply because it occurs in the same system as a previous repair. The warranty applies when the problem is directly related to the part or work we performed.
In some cases, repairing one problem can reveal or contribute to another existing weakness elsewhere in the system. If the original repair was performed correctly and the new issue is unrelated to that repair, it would not be covered.
Our warranty covers the work we perform, not the entire vehicle or unrelated components within the same system.
What if my car breaks down far from the shop? Is the warranty still covered?
Our warranty is not a nationwide warranty, so repairs performed by another shop are not automatically covered.
If you experience a problem while you’re far from us, please contact us first. We’ll do our best to help you understand the situation and find a practical solution based on the circumstances.
Do tires come with a warranty?
Tire warranties are handled differently from most automotive parts. When a tire qualifies for a manufacturer warranty, the replacement is generally prorated based on the remaining tread. This means the warranty may cover part of the cost of a new tire rather than providing a completely free replacement. Coverage and eligibility depend on the tire manufacturer and the specific warranty.
If a tire develops a problem, the replacement must be paid for at the time of service. We can then submit the warranty claim to the manufacturer when applicable. If the manufacturer approves the claim and reimburses us, we will issue you a store credit or refund for the amount received.
What if my vehicle has an extended warranty?
If your vehicle is covered by an extended warranty, bring us the warranty information and we can determine whether the repair may be covered. We work with warranty and insurance companies when applicable.
What if my vehicle is still under the manufacturer’s warranty or has an open recall?
If we find that a problem may be covered by the manufacturer’s warranty or related to an open recall, we will let you know and recommend taking the vehicle to the dealership first so the covered repair can be performed there at no cost to you when applicable.
We don’t want you paying us for a repair that the manufacturer may cover for free.
Common Car Problems
My car won’t start. What should I check first?
The battery is usually the first place to start. If the lights and dashboard do not come on when you turn the ignition on, the battery may be completely discharged, or the battery terminals may be loose, heavily corroded, or in poor condition.
Even if the lights do come on, the battery can still be too weak to start the engine. If the lights dim significantly or you hear rapid clicking when trying to start the vehicle, a weak battery or poor battery connection is often the cause. A jump-start may get the vehicle running if low battery voltage is the problem.
If the lights stay bright but you hear only a single click and the engine does not crank, the starter or starting circuit may be the problem.
If the engine cranks normally but does not start, the issue may involve fuel or ignition. In many vehicles, you can briefly hear the fuel pump run when the ignition is first turned on. If the engine tries to start but fires inconsistently, possible causes include spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel injectors, fuel pressure, or other engine-management problems.
There are many other possible causes, so if the problem is not obvious, proper testing is the best way to determine why the vehicle will not start.
Why is my battery light on?
The battery light usually indicates a problem with the vehicle’s charging system, not necessarily the battery itself. Possible causes include the alternator, drive belt, wiring, battery connections, or another electrical problem. If the light stays on while driving, the vehicle may eventually lose electrical power and shut off, so it should be checked promptly.
Even if the lights do come on, the battery can still be too weak to start the engine. If the lights dim significantly or you hear rapid clicking when trying to start the vehicle, a weak battery or poor battery connection is often the cause. A jump-start may get the vehicle running if low battery voltage is the problem.
If the lights stay bright but you hear only a single click and the engine does not crank, the starter or starting circuit may be the problem.
If the engine cranks normally but does not start, the issue may involve fuel or ignition. In many vehicles, you can briefly hear the fuel pump run when the ignition is first turned on. If the engine tries to start but fires inconsistently, possible causes include spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel injectors, fuel pressure, or other engine-management problems.
There are many other possible causes, so if the problem is not obvious, proper testing is the best way to determine why the vehicle will not start.
What is the difference between a service light and the Check Engine Light?
A service or maintenance light usually means the vehicle is due for routine maintenance, such as an oil change, inspection, or scheduled service. On many vehicles, it is shown as a wrench symbol or a maintenance reminder message.
The Check Engine Light is different. It is usually a yellow or amber engine-shaped symbol and means the vehicle’s computer has detected a problem with the engine, emissions system, fuel system, ignition system, or another monitored component.
Some vehicles use different symbols or wording, and messages such as “Service Engine Soon” may actually refer to the Check Engine Light. If you’re not sure which warning you have, consult the owner’s manual, look it up online, or, if you’re still unsure, send us a photo of the dashboard or bring the vehicle in and we can help identify it.
Why is my Check Engine Light on?
The Check Engine Light can come on for many reasons, ranging from a loose gas cap or emissions issue to an ignition, fuel, sensor, or engine problem. It is a good idea to have the trouble codes read as soon as possible so you know which system has detected a problem. Keep in mind that a trouble code is only a starting point and does not always identify the failed part or the severity of the problem.
If you are unable to bring the vehicle to us, AutoZone offers free code reading at many locations. You can have the codes scanned there and send us the report by email if you are unsure what the results mean or how serious the problem may be.
Why is my engine idling or running rough?
A rough-running engine does not always mean there is a misfire. The engine may shake, idle unevenly, hesitate, or feel like it wants to stall because of a vacuum leak, ignition problem, fuel-delivery issue, sensor problem, or another engine-management issue.
A dirty throttle body is also a common cause of poor or unstable idle. In some cases, the engine may feel like it is about to stall as you slow down or come to a stop because the throttle body is not allowing the engine to control idle airflow properly.
A misfire is another possible cause, especially if the Check Engine Light is on or flashing. If the engine runs rough only at idle, only when cold, or only during acceleration, that information can help narrow down the problem.
If the engine itself is running normally but the vehicle feels like it is jumping, jerking, or moving excessively, particularly when shifting into Drive or Reverse or when accelerating, a worn or broken engine or transmission mount may be the cause because the engine and transmission are no longer being held firmly in position.
What are the most common causes of an engine misfire?
A misfire means one or more cylinders are not burning the air-fuel mixture correctly. Common causes include worn spark plugs, failing ignition coils, fuel injectors, fuel-delivery problems, vacuum leaks, or mechanical problems inside the engine.
Spark plugs are one of the first things we consider, especially on a higher-mileage vehicle if they have never been replaced. Many vehicles recommend spark plug replacement somewhere around 90,000 miles, although the exact interval depends on the manufacturer and type of spark plug.
If the computer shows a misfire on one specific cylinder and the spark plug appears to be in good condition, we may swap the ignition coil with another cylinder. If the misfire moves to the cylinder where that coil was installed, that is a strong indication that the coil is faulty.
If the misfire stays on the same cylinder, we continue testing rather than simply replacing parts. The next steps may include checking the fuel injector, fuel pressure, wiring, vacuum leaks, compression, or other mechanical problems.
A trouble code can tell us which cylinder is misfiring, but it does not necessarily tell us why it is misfiring, which is why proper testing is important before replacing parts.
Why is my car overheating, and what should I do if it does?
Overheating can be caused by low coolant, a coolant leak, a thermostat that is not opening properly, a cooling fan that is not working, a failing water pump, a damaged or restricted radiator, or other cooling-system problems. A head gasket that is no longer sealing properly can also cause an engine to overheat.
If the temperature gauge begins rising above its normal operating range, do not wait for it to reach the red zone. Find a safe place to pull over as soon as possible. If you need a little extra time to reach a safe stopping location, turning the heater to full hot can sometimes help temporarily because the heater removes some heat from the engine’s coolant. This is only a temporary measure and is not a reason to continue driving an overheating vehicle.
Once safely parked, turn the engine off, open the hood, and allow the engine to cool completely. Never remove the radiator cap while the engine is hot, because the cooling system may be under pressure and can release extremely hot coolant or steam.
After the engine has cooled, check the coolant level in the reservoir. If it is low, coolant can be added according to the vehicle manufacturer’s instructions. Once the engine is completely cold, the radiator level can also be checked on vehicles equipped with a radiator cap.
If the coolant is very low, there is a visible leak, the vehicle continues overheating after coolant is added, or you are unsure what caused the problem, do not continue driving it. Have the vehicle inspected or towed.
Continuing to drive an overheating engine can cause serious damage, including a blown head gasket, warped cylinder head, or other internal engine damage, turning a cooling-system problem into a much more expensive repair.
Why does my car shake when braking?
A vibration while braking is very commonly caused by uneven brake rotors. This is often referred to as a “warped rotor,” although the problem may actually be uneven rotor thickness or excessive runout. The brake pads may still have plenty of material remaining even when the rotors are causing the vibration.
If the steering wheel shakes when braking, the problem commonly comes from the front brakes, especially the front rotors. If the vibration is felt more through the brake pedal or the vehicle itself, the rear brakes may also be involved.
Other problems, including worn suspension components, wheel or tire issues, or brake components that are not operating correctly, can produce similar symptoms. If the vehicle begins shaking whenever you apply the brakes, it is a good idea to have the braking system inspected to determine exactly where the vibration is coming from before replacing parts.
Why are my brakes squeaking?
Brake squeaking can have several causes. If the brake pads are worn down, a built-in wear indicator may begin squealing to warn you that the pads are getting close to the end of their life. If the pads wear completely through the friction material, the metal backing plate can contact the rotor. At that point, the sound is usually more of a grinding or harsh scraping noise, and the rotor can be damaged very quickly.
It is better not to wait until the brakes reach that point. If the pads are replaced while the rotors are still in good condition and remain above the manufacturer’s minimum thickness, the rotors may sometimes be reused or resurfaced rather than replaced. Once metal-to-metal contact has damaged the rotor, replacement is much more likely to be necessary.
Squeaking does not always mean the brakes are worn out. If the brakes were replaced recently, the noise may come from the brake pad material, the quality of the pads, the condition of the rotors, or the way the brakes were installed and broken in.
Some performance, sport, and luxury vehicles also use more aggressive brake compounds that can naturally make more noise, especially when the brakes are cold. In some cases, the brakes become quieter once they warm up during normal driving.
If the brakes have recently started squeaking, or the noise has changed from a squeak to grinding or scraping, it is best to have them inspected before additional damage occurs.
Why is my car pulling to one side?
A vehicle may pull because of uneven tire pressure, tire wear, wheel alignment, suspension problems, or a brake that is dragging. Road slope can also cause a slight pull, so the vehicle should be inspected before assuming it simply needs an alignment.
Why does my steering wheel shake at highway speed?
If the steering wheel starts shaking around 55–65 mph, the most common cause is a wheel or tire that is out of balance. Even a small imbalance can become noticeable as speed increases and may cause the steering wheel to vibrate.
Other possible causes include a damaged or unevenly worn tire, a bent wheel, worn suspension or steering components, or, less commonly, an alignment-related problem.
If the vibration mainly appears at highway speed and becomes less noticeable at lower speeds, checking the wheel balance and tire condition is usually the best place to start.
Why is my car making a humming or roaring noise while driving?
A humming, roaring, or growling noise that becomes louder as vehicle speed increases can come from a worn wheel bearing, but tires can create very similar sounds.
Cupped or unevenly worn tires can produce a repetitive humming or droning noise that changes with speed. Tire cupping is often related to worn suspension components, improper wheel balance, alignment issues, or driving for a long time with a tire problem.
A worn wheel bearing may also become louder when the vehicle turns and the load shifts from one side to the other. Because tire noise and bearing noise can sound very similar from inside the vehicle, an inspection is usually the best way to determine the actual cause.
Why is my A/C blowing warm air?
If air is coming through the vents but it is not cold, the problem may be caused by low refrigerant, a refrigerant leak, compressor problems, electrical issues, cooling fan problems, or another fault in the A/C system.
One of the first steps in diagnosing an A/C problem is usually to connect the vehicle to A/C service equipment. This allows us to check the system pressures and determine whether the refrigerant charge is low, incorrect, or showing signs of another problem. Depending on what we find, additional electrical or mechanical testing may still be necessary.
Simply adding refrigerant is not always the solution. If the system is low because of a leak, adding refrigerant without finding the cause may only make the A/C work temporarily. Proper testing helps determine why the system is not cooling before replacing parts or recharging it unnecessarily.
Why is there no air coming out of my vents?
If the A/C or heater is turned on but no air is coming through the vents at all, the problem is usually related to the blower system rather than the refrigerant.
A failed blower motor is a common cause, but the problem can also come from a fuse, relay, blower motor resistor or control module, wiring, or the climate-control system.
If the blower works only on certain speeds, that can also help narrow down the problem. If it does not operate at any speed, we usually begin by checking the blower motor and its electrical circuit.
What is the fluid leaking from my car?
Vehicles use several different fluids, including engine oil, coolant, transmission fluid, brake fluid, and power steering fluid. The first step is usually to determine what type of fluid is leaking. The color, smell, consistency, amount, and location of the fluid can all provide useful clues.
Keep in mind that a small amount of clear water under the vehicle after using the A/C is usually normal condensation and is not considered a fluid leak. This is especially common on hot or humid days.
Finding the exact source of a leak is not always easy. Fluid can travel along the engine, transmission, hoses, shields, or other components before it reaches the ground, so the place where you see the drip may not be where the leak actually started. In some cases, the area needs to be cleaned and inspected again after the vehicle has been driven.
It is also important to understand that repairing one leak can sometimes reveal another weak area in the same system. A system that has been leaking may have been operating with reduced pressure or fluid loss. Once the original leak is repaired and the system is properly sealed again, normal pressure is restored. An older hose, gasket, seal, or other weakened component may then begin leaking.
This does not necessarily mean the first repair caused the new leak. It can simply mean that another already weakened part of the system became noticeable once normal operating conditions were restored.
Some leaks are relatively minor, while others can quickly lead to engine damage, transmission problems, overheating, loss of braking ability, or other safety concerns. If you notice fluid under your vehicle and are not sure what it is, have it identified before continuing to drive for an extended period.
Still Have Questions?
Our team is here to help. Contact us with any questions and we’ll make sure you get the answers you need.